Let me be honest with you. The first time I drove into Holmfirth, winding down the steep hill into the Holme Valley, I had one thing on my mind: a rusty, old bath on wheels. Like millions of others, my image of the place was entirely shaped by decades of watching Last of the Summer Wine. I expected a quiet, almost sleepy little spot frozen in the 1970s. What I found, however, was a delightful surprise—a bustling, vibrant Yorkshire town with a brilliant personality all of its own, one that warmly acknowledges its famous past while firmly living in a very lively present.
Nestled in the dramatic South Pennines, Holmfirth is a town of steep cobbled streets, handsome stone buildings, and a fierce independent spirit. Yes, you can still find Compo’s memorial bench and have a tea at Sid’s Cafe, but you can also catch an internationally acclaimed band in a converted cinema, taste award-winning wine made on the hillsides, and lose yourself in a landscape that will take your breath away. This guide isn’t just a list of spots; it’s my personal take on how to fall in love with Holmfirth, from its TV trivia to its very real, beating heart.
Why Holmfirth is Famous: More Than Just a TV Set
It’s impossible to talk about Holmfirth without mentioning Last of the Summer Wine. For 37 years, the world watched the mischievous adventures of Compo, Clegg, and Foggy in this very valley. The show didn’t just film here; it became part of the town’s DNA. For locals, it was a double-edged sword—bringing global recognition and tourist pounds, but sometimes overshadowing everything else.
Walking around, you feel that legacy in a charming, unforced way. The tourism office happily points you to the filming locations. You’ll see photo boards on the streets. But the real magic is seeing the actual landscapes that formed the backdrop of those gentle comedies. The rolling hills, the drystone walls, the beck flowing through the town centre—they’re all there, just as beautiful in reality. The show essentially packaged up classic Yorkshire scenery and beamed it into living rooms worldwide. It’s a special kind of fame, one based on a sense of place and community rather than just glamour.
The Must-See Spots: From Nostalgia to Now
Your first stop will likely be Sid’s Cafe on the main street. It’s the iconic location from the show, still serving hearty Yorkshire fare. It’s wonderfully unchanged, a little time capsule. Sitting there with a mug of tea, you half-expect Nora Batty to walk past the window. It’s a fun, essential pilgrimage for any fan.
But step a few doors down, and you enter a different side of Holmfirth’s culture: The Picturedrome. This is where the town truly comes alive at night. Originally a cinema, then a bingo hall, it’s now one of the UK’s best small music venues. I’ve seen folk legends and rising indie stars here, and the atmosphere is always electric. The acoustics are superb, and there’s not a bad spot in the house. It’s a perfect example of how Holmfirth has repurposed its old spaces with imagination and passion.
For a taste of the local terroir, take the short trip up the hill to Holmfirth Vineyard. It still amazes me that you can grow grapes for sparkling wine on these Pennine slopes, but they do, and it’s excellent. The view from their terrace is worth the visit alone—a sweeping panorama of the very valley that makes Holmfirth so special. Doing a tasting there, looking out over the landscape, connects you to the land in a way that just visiting a shop can’t.
Walking in the Footsteps of Giants (and Compo)
If you do only one thing in Holmfirth, make it a walk. The town is a gateway to some of the most stunning walking country in England. You can follow the Holme Valley Circular Walk, a well-signposted trail that takes you along the river, through woods, and up to viewpoints that give you that classic, expansive Yorkshire view.
My personal favourite is a shorter amble up to Bamford’s Mill and beyond. You start in the town centre, pass the old mill (now apartments, another sign of clever regeneration), and within minutes, you’re in open countryside. The sound of traffic fades, replaced by birdsong and the wind in the grass. You can see why the Summer Wine directors barely had to move their cameras to find a perfect shot. The public footpath network here is incredible, and you don’t need to be an expert hiker to enjoy it. Just pack a decent pair of shoes and a sense of adventure.
The Soul of the Town: Independence and Character
What stayed with me most after my visits wasn’t a specific sight, but a feeling. Holmfirth has an incredible collection of independent shops and businesses. You won’t find many big chain stores here. Instead, you’ll find a fantastic old-fashioned hardware shop, quirky antique emporiums, artisan bakeries, and galleries showcasing local artists. There’s a real “made here, sold here” ethos.
This is rooted in the town’s history. Long before television, Holmfirth was a centre for the woollen trade. Those grand old mills you see were once powered by the fast-flowing river, spinning and weaving wool. That legacy of craftsmanship and self-reliance has never really left. It’s just transformed. Today, the creativity comes through in food, art, and music. The monthly Holmfirth Market is a great place to feel this pulse, with local producers selling everything from cheese to ceramics.
A Calendar Full of Life: Festivals and Events
Time your visit right, and you’ll see Holmfirth at its most energetic. The Holmfirth Arts Festival is a highlight, turning the entire town into a stage for music, theatre, and comedy. I once stumbled upon a brilliant acoustic folk set in the back room of a pub during the festival—it was unplanned and unforgettable. Then there’s the Festival of Folk, which draws top musicians, and various food and drink festivals that fill the streets with aroma and bustle.
These events aren’t just for tourists; they’re for the community, and visitors are welcomed as temporary locals. It shows a town confident in its own culture, eager to share it, and always ready for a good time.
Planning Your Visit: A Few Handy Tips
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Getting There: Holmfirth is easiest by car, with several pay-and-display car parks (the one behind the Co-op is central). If you’re using public transport, regular buses run from Huddersfield, which has a mainline train station.
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Staying Over: While a day trip is great, staying overnight lets you experience the pubs and the Picturedrome. There’s a range of lovely B&Bs and guesthouses. I stayed at a farmhouse just outside town once and woke up to sheep outside my window—it was perfect.
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When to Go: Spring and summer are beautiful for walking. Autumn brings stunning colours to the valley. Even winter has a cosy charm, especially if the Christmas lights are up and you’re tucked into a pub by a fire.
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The Vibe: Come with an open mind. Enjoy the Summer Wine nostalgia, but let yourself be surprised by everything else. Talk to the shopkeepers, check the Picturedrome listings, and just wander.
Conclusion
Holmfirth taught me a valuable travel lesson: never let a place’s famous image completely define your expectations. Behind the gentle, comic façade of the world’s longest-running sitcom lies a town of immense strength, creativity, and natural beauty. It’s a place where you can geek out on TV history one moment and be blown away by a powerful musical performance the next. It’s a community that respects its past but is squarely focused on a vibrant future.
So, come for the memory of Compo’s antics, but stay for the walk in the breathtaking hills, the taste of local wine, the sound of live music echoing off ancient stones, and the warm, no-nonsense welcome of Yorkshire itself. Holmfirth isn’t a museum; it’s a living, working, celebrating town that’s well worth getting to know.
FAQ Section
Q: Is Holmfirth worth visiting if I’ve never seen Last of the Summer Wine?
A: Absolutely! While the show is a big part of its history, Holmfirth stands firmly on its own merits. The stunning Pennine scenery, excellent independent shops, fantastic live music at The Picturedrome, and the general friendly atmosphere make it a wonderful destination for anyone.
Q: How long should I spend in Holmfirth?
A: You can see the main town highlights in a full day trip. However, to truly appreciate it and use it as a base for exploring the surrounding walks and villages, I’d recommend staying for one or two nights.
Q: Is Holmfirth hilly?
A: Yes, it is! The town is built on the steep sides of the Holme Valley. Comfortable walking shoes are essential. The hills are part of its charm and provide those amazing views.
Q: Can you visit the actual Last of the Summer Wine locations?
A: Yes, many are publicly accessible. Sid’s Cafe is a working cafe. Nora Batty’s steps (on Towngate) and Compo’s memorial bench overlooking the valley are popular photo spots. You can pick up a location map from the tourist information centre.
Q: What is there for families to do?
A: Plenty! Kids will enjoy the sweet shops and ice cream parlours. The surrounding countryside is great for picnics and easy walks. The Picturedrome often hosts family-friendly events, and the various festivals usually have activities for all ages.
